Aromatic herbs usually have a presence in the art of cooking, but they are also used in the perfume industry as one of the important ingredients present in perfumes that belong to the fougere family, also known as the Fern Family. .
Aromatic herbs are classified into three main groups:
- components of lavender
- Mint ingredients
- anise components
Aromatic herbs that belong to lavender
Some aromatic herbs contain lavender components, that is, they have the aromatic properties of lavender, as follows:
- lavender
- lavandin
- Rosemary
- zaatar
- Sage
- wormwood
lavender _
The genesis of the tulip
Southern France is the main producer of lavender, with the term “lavender” coming from the Latin “lavare” which means “to wash.” There are many different types of lavender:
- lavandula stoechas
- Lavandula officinalis.
- Lavandula spica.
Lavender is a symbol of purity and tranquility.
Processing and manufacturing of raw materials
It is possible to obtain lavender extract by steam distillation or lavender absolute oil extract (Abs) by solvent extraction.
Olfactory description of lavender
Lavender contains a herbal, eucalyptus and refreshing scent, and its scent has several facets, as it emits some features of the smell of bergamot, or a little floral, with some woody overtones. However, it is a component of the presence of its strong and noticeable scent, whether it appears in gardens or even its home of origin in the south of France.
Some people may find the smell of lavender reminiscent of old scents, due to its great use in the last century by the most famous brands, which consider lavender to be the essence of classic perfumes, and its scent tends to have powdery features or as it is called (shaving foam), as well as in classic cologne. It was noted that the ratio of the linalyl component is what adds to it the olfactory quality, so the higher it is, the higher its quality and price.
Lavender uses
Lavender is traditionally associated with the family of ferns (fougères), and is also typical of colognes or men's perfumes, but is also found in chypres or oriental perfumes, and now in some women's fragrances as well. Lavender is used more often in some children's and teenage fragrances.
The main components of lavender
Lavender is one of the well-known compounds that give a beautiful lavender character: linalool, coumarin, linalyl, and camphor.
Lavandin _
Lavandin originated
Native to the Mediterranean, lavandin is a type of lavender that is the result of a cross between Lavandula vera and Lavandula spica, generally harvested in the south of France. There are 3 types of lavandin:
- Lavandin Grosso.
- Lavandin April.
- Super lavandin.
Lavandin Grosso is the most cultivated of them.
Processing and manufacturing of raw materials
Like lavender, lavandin oil is obtained through steam distillation.
Odor description of lavandin
Lavandin is more camphor than lavender as an adjective of aroma, it is fresh, slightly woody, spicy, and has a less elegant side than true lavender, it smells herbal, somewhat soapy, and is decidedly more aromatic than lavender.
Lavandin use
Lavandin is mainly used in detergents, soaps, and generally in perfumery.
Rosemary _
The genesis of rosemary
It is called in English (Rosemary) and it is derived from the Latin word "Rosmarinus", which means "sea dew", because the plant is saturated with the salty notes of the sea, and the rosemary plant is native to the Mediterranean ocean.
Processing and manufacturing of raw materials
Rosemary extract is obtained by steam distillation of its leaves and flowers.
Aromatic description of rosemary
Rosemary is aromatic, fresh, herbal, and woody in its development. Because it smells strong and lavender as well as bitter, this note reminds us of incense in some versions.
Use rosemary
Rosemary is mainly used in perfumes, especially in refreshing citrusy fragrances and often accompanies top notes in general, and it blends well with oriental perfumes to add a refreshing opening.
Thyme _
Thyme origins
The origin of thyme goes back to Europe, and the Egyptians used it in embalming in the past, and the Greeks used it and burned it like incense.
There are many types of thyme, namely:
- Lemon thyme.
- Wild Thyme.
- German thyme.
In southern France, thyme is called "la farigoule".
Processing and manufacturing of raw materials
Thyme is harvested from spring to late summer, and the branches are dried and then steam-distilled to obtain pure thyme oil.
Olfactory description of thyme
Zaatar has a camphor-herbal and spicy in some of it, and its notes are very refreshing and rich.
The use of thyme
The component of thyme is often used in refreshing perfumes (colognes) or in aromatic herbal perfumes (aromatics). It is also found in some spicy oriental perfumes.
Sage _
Maramia arose
The sage plant is an aromatic plant from the Lamiaceae family. It grows mainly in Europe, and there are many species of sage that have medicinal properties as well.
There are two main types of sage:
- Clary sage
- Sage
- There are undoubtedly other different types of sage plant
Processing and extraction
Two processes are used to obtain sage in perfumery, the most common being by steam distillation which gives sage oil.
However, it is also possible to obtain an absolute oil extract (Abs), by solvent extraction. Depending on which part of the plant was extracted, and the result obtained will be different, of course, when the gum or resin accompanying the sage plant is extracted, we have sage resinoid, while extracting all the other members of the plant will show us sage wax.
Olfactory description of sage
Clary sage has an animalic, woody, and slightly earthy aromatic note, but also floral notes with notes of lavender, mint, and eucalyptus.
Use of sage
Sage brings a fresh and lively aromatic scent to perfumes and is often used in men's perfumes.
Sage is used in the event that the sage oil extract is sometimes used in the composition of chypre and oriental perfumes, although it is traditionally associated with the fern families. However, it has a strong cohesion of the aromatic components in the base, and sage can be used to obtain ambrox or ambroxan ( Ambrox or Ambroxan ), which makes it possible to replace whale ambergris (musk) in the aromatic base. This type is rarely used in women's perfumes.
Wormwood ( Artemisia )
Wormwood is a perennial herbaceous plant, whose Latin name is (Artemisia), and it is native to North Africa and the Mediterranean ocean. There are more than 200 different types. Wormwood has a herbal, refreshing, camphor, myrrh scent. It is mainly found in men's perfumery.
Aromatic herbs with some anise qualities
Among the aromatic herbs used in perfumery, which contains notes of anise. It is noticeable in:
- basil
- tarragon
- anise
basil _
The genesis of basil
Basil is native to India and Lebanon and was introduced to Europe in the sixteenth century. It is grown in Mediterranean countries such as Egypt and Morocco.
In the past, basil was reserved for royal use in ancient Greece and Rome. In fact, "sage" originally meant "royal".
There are at least 6 different types of basil, each with a distinct aroma. Most basil production is located in Egypt, North Africa, Southern Europe (especially Italy), the United States, Madagascar, France, and Seychelles.
Processing and manufacturing of raw materials
Basil oil comes from the leaves of the plant and must be dried before steam distillation.
Olfactory description of basil
Basil has a green, aromatic and fresh scent, while it has a character, but it is also green (leafy), spicy, and the anise notes are clear, as well as minty, which pairs perfectly with the lavender, especially the woody side of it. It is a lively and invigorating scent. There is a variety of basil with large leaves that smells like jasmine flower, licorice, and lemon. Purple basil also contains hints of spice.
The use of basil
Basil oil is mainly used in fresh or fern perfume compositions. It is often associated with the scent of lemon or spice. Basil can also be used as a component of chypre perfumes. It enhances the smell of basil (aromatic), and adds a touch of anise to the fragrance. The smell of basil oil is very far from the fresh green scents, and this may be disappointing for beginner perfumers or perfume lovers.
Tarragon
The origin of the tarragon plant
Native to Russia and the regions surrounding the Himalayas, the tarragon plant was introduced to Spain by the Arabs during the Andalusian era at the time. Most of the production of tarragon is now concentrated in France. The tarragon plant became known in France in the late eighteenth century. It was called "tarcon" and then "targon", and this word comes from the English word "tarragon", which means "dragon grass". dragongrass".
Processing and manufacturing of raw materials
Tarragon essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of its leaves.
Olfactory description of tarragon
Tarragon has a green, aromatic, herbaceous aroma, slightly spicy with aniseed notes.
The use of tarragon
Tarragon is used in fresh perfumes as an ingredient in an aromatic overture, often combined with citruses. It can also be used with rose or cinnamon leaves.
One of the most common uses of tarragon is in the aromatic family, and many perfumers use it to bring the spice (anise) into a blend or to enhance the effect of hedione (a component of jasmine flower) in a fragrance. Hedione is used frequently in perfumes and some perfumes for infants, children and adolescents.
