Aldehyde face definition
- The origin of aldehydes
Synthetic aldehydes were first discovered by German chemist Baron von Liebig in 1835. It has become indispensable in perfume laboratories until this moment.
- Aldehyde in chemistry: a chain of carbons
In chemistry we have aldehydes which are a particular group of atoms. Aldehydes are determined to have a long or short linear carbon chain with a chemical formula, for example C1, C2, C3... C12. Traces of these aldehydes are also found in nature, especially in notes of citrus fruits or some other fruity notes.
In 1903 Mr. Darzens discovered a method for stabilizing some aldehydes, in particular the aldehyde C12MNA, with its very cold, clean and somewhat subdued metallic odor.
- Aldehydes in the perfume industry:
In the language of perfumery, aldehydes refer to a specific category. Aldehyde notes are particularly suited to the floral, chypre, or woody notes of a perfume by allowing the effect of the fragrance to be enhanced.
However, there are aldehydes which are named by this name but they do not belong to this category. And this is the case of fruity notes:
- C-14: Peach scent (C-14)
- C-18: Coconut scent (C-18)
- C16: Raspberry scent (C-16)
The first uses of aldehydes in perfumes
The first perfumes with this ingredient were Deux Fleurs d'Houbigant, a wonderful party of florals, as well as Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue in 1913.
In 1921, Ernest Beaux, the perfumer of Chanel, was the first to use aldehydes (C10, C11, C12 MNA) associated with jasmine sambac, rose and ylang-ylang to create a pure floral bouquet. And it was the stunning success of Chanel (№5) that launched this new olfactory family.
Coco Chanel herself is said to have told perfumer Ernest Beaux, who was then the perfumer at the court of the Czar in Russia, of her desire for a "modern and lively" perfume, composed of jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang. Which makes the perfume a novelty, which is a dose of aldehyde. And the story goes that by intentionally boosting these aldehydes to 1%, Ernest Bo wanted floral scents to not take over.
Another version says that this potion, which made Chanel (№5) a success, was the result of a mistake!! As for the name of the perfume itself, the famous number "5" indicates the number of attempts it took before it reached the legendary formula! The mystery remains and since 1921, several brands have in turn launched "floral aldehydes" in imitation of Chanel (№5).
Aldehydes make flowers sing
Finally, we can say that the aldehydes of these "laboratory flowers" give strength and bring freshness to the scent, adding clean and metallic hints, and that they make the flowers "sing" to reveal their beautiful essence in the fragrance.
